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The Qutb Shahi Tombs

The tomb of Mohammad Qutb Shah, father of Hayat Baksh Begum.

‘Seven Tombs’—the name by which this tomb complex in Hyderabad, one of the city’s major heritage attractions, is known—is very deceptive. Firstly, because while the large tombs, those of various rulers of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, do total up to seven, there are dozens of other tombs, of everybody from dancers to physicians to queens. [...]

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The fort on ‘Shepherd’s Hill’: Golconda

Looking up at the top of the fort, from the Clapping Portico.

Of the forts of the Deccan, Golconda is one of the most famous—and it’s one of Hyderabad’s major tourist attractions. We’d decided this had to be among the first sights we visited, so after we’d seen the Qutb Shahi Tombs, we headed for Golconda (a bad idea, actually, since we ended up trudging up to [...]

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The mosque with a link to Mecca

Sadly, the only thing I knew about Hyderabad’s Mecca Masjid, before I began researching the city to create our itinerary, was that it was the scene of a brutal terrorist attack in 2007. Someone mentioned to us that, in the wake of the bombing, the mosque had been shut for visitors. It’s open now, though, [...]

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Charminar, the Four Pillars of Hyderabad

The Charminar.

Bang in the heart—literal and spiritual, so to say—of Hyderabad is the ornate four-towered building known as Charminar. We visited it on our second day in Hyderabad, but even on our first day, while sightseeing elsewhere, we were constantly asked: “Have you been to the Charminar?” We did intend to go (one can’t go to [...]

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